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Wednesday, October 8, 2008

Fraser's Hill


Fraser's Hill is named after Louis James Fraser, a Scotsman who prospected for gold in Australia but eventually struck tin here instead in the 1890s. Employing Chinese miners to do the hard work for him and earning his keep by operating mule trains down the mountain, Fraser set up opium and gambling dens to increase his profits, which may have had something to do with his subsequent mysterious disappearance. The tin ran out in 1913, but the lush valley within was rediscovered as a colonial hill resort that, thanks to its 1524 m elevation, enjoys considerably cooler temperatures than Kuala Lumpur. By 1922 a road had been cut through the mountains to the valley, which soon sprouted bungalows and even one of Malaya's first golf courses.

Not much has changed since, and Fraser's Hill retains a wonderfully weird mixed-up character, where locals eat curries off banana leaves in a English cottage next to a golf course while the call to prayer sounds from the mosque.

Orientation

Orienting yourself in Fraser's Hill is easy enough: the entrance via the Gap is at the southwest corner of the valley and the "center" as such is at the intersection of Jalan Genting and Jalan Lady Guillemard, with the much-photographed clock tower marking the spot. Most restaurants and shops are clustered here, while the golf course takes up the bottom of the valley and bungalows and swanky residences dot the hills all around.



Get in


By road

Fraser's Hill is located 105 km north of Kuala Lumpur, around 2 hours by car. For a long time, access to Fraser's Hill was possible only via a 8 km one-lane road known as the The Gap, used by uphill and downhill traffic in turns. A new road was completed in 2001, but it has been plagued by repeated landslides, and (as of June 2008) is closed for repairs.

When the Gap is the only option: Traffic control effective 7AM to 7PM. Odd hours for up to Fraser's Hill and even hours for descending traffic.

When the new road is open: All downward traffic uses the new road, while the old Gap road is designated for upward traffic, with no time restrictions round the clock.

For road conditions from Kuala Kubu Bahru (KKB) or Raub to Fraser's Hill, contact the police station in Fraser's Hill +609 3622222.

By taxi

Apart from car, the easiest way is by using taxi from Kuala Lumpur. Normal KL taxis can't do the trip, but you can arrange one from the Puduraya bus station, or call up Selangor Radio Taxi (tel. 03-2936213) or Comfort Taxi (tel. 03-7330495). You can expect to be quoted around RM200 for a one-way transfer, but this can be negotiated down, even more so for a return trip.

By Train

The KTM Kommuter's northern run from Kuala Lumpur now reaches Kuala Kubu Baru as of March 2008. Commuters need to switch trains in Rawang (Platform 2 heads toward Kuala Kubu Baru from Rawang). From Kuala Kubu Baru, contact the locals for transport up to Fraser, they charge RM70 a single journey(another RM70 for the return journey). There are no taxi in the near vincinity

By bus

There is no more bus service to Fraser's Hill whether from Kuala Kubu Bahru or Raub. You will have to catch a taxi from these two places or directly from Kuala Lumpur to get to Fraser's Hill. From Kuala Kubu Bahru, taxis cost about RM60. See the respective pages on how to get there or for connections from there.


Fraser's Hill is famed worldwide as a birdwatching destination, with over 250 species recorded. Winners during the annual Bird Race have spotted as many as 70 species within 24 hours!

  • Fraser's Hill Nature Education Centre, Jalan Genting, . On the second floor of the Sports Complex, this WWF-affiliated center has some lacklustre displays about flora and fauna in the area, but the staff are quite helpful and visiting is free (donations welcome).
  • Jeriau Waterfalls, 5 km (30 min drive) from the town centre and then a 15-min walk. The falls are 6 meters high and fall into a shallow pool suitable for bathing. The area is equipped with restrooms and shelters for picnics. No public transport.

The top sporting activities on Fraser's Hill are hiking and golf.

Hiking

There are eight signposted trails around Fraser's Hill, although some have been closed at least temporarily after a well-publicized incident in 2005 when three young boys got lost in the jungle. Watch out for leeches.

  • Hemmant Trail. An easy 20-minute trail along the north side of the golf course.
  • Bishop's Trail. Effectively a continuation of the Hemmant Trail, this is a slightly more challenging half-hour track through the jungle. Slippery when wet.
  • Pine Tree Trail. A challenging 6 kilometer trail up and down hills to the eponymous Pine Tree Hill, and you'll have to return the way you came to boot. This is a full-day hike that will take 7-8 hours at a moderate pace.

Golf

  • Fraser's Hill Golf and Country Club. 18 holes. Green fees RM100/120 weekdays/weekends. As of April 2007, the access road leading to the course is blocked with a no entry sign, but can still be reached by foot. The entire complex appears abandoned. The last punch card entry discovered inside the guard house was dated November 2006, suggesting that it has been defunct for quite some time.
  • Royal Fraser's Hill Golf Club. (All day 9 hole - Walking course) A short but very tight course. Open daily 8AM-7PM, green fees RM30/40 weekdays/weekends (whole day). Carry fee RM10. Golf sets available for rent at the Sports Complex.

Tennis

  • With such a delightful climate, Fraser's Hill ought to be perfect for tennis. Unfortunately, the courts have been neglected. Both Pines Resorts and SilverPark have courts, but they have fallen into disrepair. There are two public courts on the Pines Road (next to the Pahang Instana), but they are barely playable. The courts are filthy, so be prepared to discard your balls after a few plays (they turn from yellow to black).

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